Financial·11 September 2026·5 min read·By BeehiveMind

What beekeeping costs to start, and per hive after that

Typical figures for the first hive, the second one, and the year-on-year costs of feed, treatments, replacements and jars, with the income side alongside. What the averages leave out, and why the number that matters is the one your own records will give you.

Ink illustration of a honey jar with a cloth cover tied at the neck

The honest answer to what beekeeping costs is that it depends on what you count. The hive is the smallest part. The bees, the kit that stops you being stung, the sugar you will feed them, the treatments that keep them alive, the queens you will replace, and the jars the honey goes into add up to a figure most beginners underestimate by half, and the second hive costs far less than the first. Here are typical 2026 figures, in ranges, and then the only number that actually matters.

The first hive

  • The hive. A complete hive with a floor, brood box, frames and foundation, a super or two, a crown board and a roof: roughly one hundred and fifty to three hundred US dollars, one hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty pounds, or two hundred to four hundred Australian dollars, assembled and painted. Flat-pack cedar or pine is at the bottom of the range; polystyrene and ready-built at the top.
  • The bees. A nucleus colony, five frames with a laying queen, brood and stores, is the safest start and costs about one hundred and fifty to two hundred and fifty dollars, or one hundred and eighty to two hundred and sixty pounds. A package of bees is cheaper and slower to build. A swarm is free and unpredictable.
  • Protection and tools. A suit or jacket with veil, gloves, a smoker and a hive tool: one hundred to two hundred and fifty dollars. Do not economise on the veil.
  • Extraction. Nothing in year one. Crush and strain, or borrow the association's extractor. A hand extractor is a few hundred when the number of hives justifies it.

So a first hive with bees is roughly four hundred to nine hundred dollars, three hundred and fifty to seven hundred pounds, or five hundred to a thousand Australian dollars. Two colonies, which is what nearly every association recommends because one hive cannot rescue itself, adds the hive and the bees but not the kit: call it one and a half times the figure for one.

Every year after that

These are the costs that quietly decide whether the honey pays for the hobby, and they scale with hives.

  • Feed. A colony that needs winter feed takes ten to fifteen kilos of sugar; some years none, some years two feeds. Ten to twenty dollars per hive, more in a poor season.
  • Varroa treatments. One late-summer course and one midwinter oxalic dose, and sometimes a spring one: ten to forty dollars per hive depending on the product. Which products is a separate decision; that they are needed is not.
  • Frames and foundation. Replacing a third of the brood comb every year, plus super frames as the colony grows: ten to twenty dollars per hive.
  • Queens. A bought queen every second or third year, thirty to fifty dollars, or the time to raise your own.
  • Jars, lids and labels. Fifty cents to a dollar per jar, in proportion to what you sell.
  • Losses. The cost nobody budgets for. A winter loss of ten to twenty per cent is common even in well-run apiaries, and each lost colony is a nucleus to replace or a split to make from a good one.

Call it forty to a hundred dollars per hive per year on consumables, before losses, before your time, and before the fixed costs that do not scale: association membership, insurance where it is required, a registration fee in the places that have one, and the mite-count kit.

What a hive returns

A temperate colony in a reasonable year on reasonable forage gives ten to thirty kilos of surplus honey; a strong colony on a good site can double that and a weak one gives nothing. Sold direct in jars at local prices, that is somewhere between a hundred and several hundred dollars a hive. Sold in bulk it is far less. Wax, propolis, pollen, nucs and queens add to it for those who go that way.

The trouble with that paragraph is the word average. In an apiary of thirty, the honey usually comes from twenty of them, the top five give a third of it, and two or three give nothing while eating a full share of the feed and treatments. The average says the apiary pays. The per-hive figures say which hives do.

Is it profitable?

At hobby scale, rarely, once the equipment and your time are counted; the honey pays for the sugar and the treatments and a little more, and the return is in the bees. Past a few dozen hives sold direct, a real margin is possible, and at that point the business questions are all per-hive questions: which sites produce on the least feed, which colonies should have been combined last autumn, what a kilo costs you to make, and what the price has to be. None of them can be answered from a total.

The number that matters is yours

Every figure above is a range because every apiary is different, and the range is wide enough to be useless for planning. What is not useless is your own cost per hive after one season: feed, treatments, queens and jars recorded against the hive or apiary they were spent on, harvest weighed per hive, divided. It takes about a minute a week to keep, it replaces this article by next autumn, and it is what the financial module is for. Cost per hive is the number that changes decisions explains what to do with it once you have it.

Common questions

How much does it cost to start beekeeping?

For one hive in 2026, roughly four hundred to nine hundred US dollars, or three hundred and fifty to seven hundred pounds, for the hive and frames, a nucleus colony or package of bees, a suit, gloves, a smoker and a hive tool. Most beginners are advised to start with two colonies, which adds the hive and bees but not the kit, so two hives cost about one and a half times one.

How much does beekeeping cost per year?

Once you are set up, commonly forty to a hundred dollars per hive per year: sugar for feeding, one or two varroa treatments, replacement frames and foundation, and a new queen every second or third year, plus jars and lids in proportion to the honey you sell. Association membership, insurance and any registration fee are on top and do not scale with hives.

Is beekeeping profitable?

At hobby scale, rarely, once you count the equipment and your time; the honey usually covers the running costs. It becomes a business somewhere past a few dozen hives sold direct, and even then the margin lives in a few decisions: which sites to keep, which colonies to combine, and what a kilo costs you to produce. Those are per-hive questions, which is why the answer is in your records rather than in an average.

Do I need an extractor?

Not in the first year. Crush and strain works for a hive or two, most associations lend or rent an extractor, and a good hand extractor costs a few hundred in any currency. Buy one when the harvest per hive multiplied by the number of hives makes borrowing one a nuisance.

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